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- If you trim your plants in fall or winter, you may mistakenly remove flower buds for the following year on bigleaf and oakleaf hydrangeas. Leaving the old flower heads on the plants will also add some interest to the winter landscape. It’s best to save hydrangea pruning chores until spring or summer after plants bloom (don’t worry, the new growth will soon hide any dead stems from the following year). - Source: Internet
- A hydrangea in full bloom is a colorful sight to celebrate. But did you know that some types of hydrangeas actually produce their flower buds during the growing season before blooming? The young, tender buds form in late summer and then need to hang on through whatever winter weather comes their way. If cold winds, subzero temperatures, and freeze-and-thaw cycles damage those buds, chances are you won’t see any hydrangea flowers the following spring or summer. Extra care for your hydrangeas in winter in colder regions will help maximize their blooms. Here’s what you can do to prepare your hydrangeas for the cold so you’ll be sure to enjoy their beautiful flowers once again. - Source: Internet
- Hydrangeas that bloom in spring and early summer are likely bigleaf or oakleaf hydrangeas. These hydrangeas bloom from flower buds created the previous summer or fall (a few varieties, such as Endless Summer hydrangeas, also form buds the same year as they bloom). If extreme cold or drying winter winds are a challenge in your region, consider adding some winter protection around these spring and summer-blooming shrubs. If you live in a milder climate and haven’t had trouble with your bigleaf or oakleaf hydrangea blooming in the past, you probably don’t need to protect your plant. - Source: Internet
- When it comes to flowering shrubs, hydrangeas rank No. 1 with many Michigan homeowners. The Holy Grail for many Michiganders is the bodacious mop head also called Big Leaf or florist hydrangea (H. macrophyllas), which sports large clusters of pink, red or blue flowers. - Source: Internet
- Here in Michigan, reblooming hydrangeas are said to thrive in five to six hours of sun, spending their afternoons in the shade in an area that is protected from high winds. They should be planted in organic rich soil – I’ll be adding a combination of Canadian sphagnum peat moss, compost and composted pine bark to the backfill soil. I’ve become a huge fan of using Mychorriza and beneficial microbes when planting, so I’ll dust Assure Transplant Success granules on the root ball and in the planting hole. It’s available at English Gardens, Van Attas in Haslett and Soulliere Garden Center in St. Clair Shores. - Source: Internet
- The first step in planning winter care is to get a good idea of what kind of hydrangea you are growing. If your hydrangea doesn’t bloom in spring but instead blooms exclusively in mid to late summer, it’s likely a smooth or panicle hydrangea. These varieties produce flower buds in spring. Because smooth and panicle hydrangeas develop flower buds and bloom in the same growing season, they rarely require extra winter care. - Source: Internet
- Flower-bud protection is the goal of caring for hydrangeas in winter. The simplest method is to mound shredded leaves or bark mulch around the base of the plant to about 12 inches or so. Put the mulch mound in place in late fall after the ground freezes, and uncover plants in spring when temperatures begin to stay above freezing. - Source: Internet
- Like all trees, shrubs, and perennials, Hydrangeas overwinter best when they are fully hydrated. Water hydrangeas deeply a couple of times in fall. Winter winds can quickly dry out hydrangeas. Ample moisture in fall will help stems withstand freezing blasts of air. - Source: Internet
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